Sayulita is natural beaches, lush
jungles and a taste of rural Mexico
Located on the Pacific coast of
Nayarit, Mexico, this pueblo was originally a hacienda for harvesting small
coconuts for oil. These brown golf-ball sized nuts are still found on the
jungle paths, along with mangos, large coconuts, papaya and citrus fruit.
Dogs, chickens and kids run and play in the cobblestone and dirt roads. Visitors
and locals enjoy baseball games, festivals with live music, surfing, bicycling
and kayaking. Sayulita is a world away from nearby Puerto Vallarta and it's
huge resorts, discos and parasailing. In fact, many say Sayulita is what Puerto
Vallarta was 40 years ago. Sayulita's slow pace makes it hard to leave evidenced
by the number of northerners building winter homes. The local government recently
passed an ordinance prohibiting the cutting of all trees to help prevent Sayulita
from becoming another Vallarta. The village location is ideal, only 35 minutes
north of Puerto Vallarta airport and 3 hours from Guadalajara. Leave the complexities
and pressure of the modern world behind and step back in time to the exotic,
carefree village of Sayulita.
Our
Beaches :
The main beach of Sayulita is rarely crowded, the exceptions being at Christmas
and Easter. The constant activity of fishing boats and bird life make it a
pleasant place to be. There are other nearby beaches more absent of civilization
and worth discovering as well. The nearest is La Playa de Los Muertos
(beach of the dead), so named because it is reached through the village cemetery.
Follow the beach to the left of the village (facing the water) until the road
ends (you'll pass the fish trailer). Take the trail to the left that
goes over the hill and through the cemetery. On the other side of the
cemetery, turn right to a cove with a wide expanse of beach. The next good
beach is Carasitos to the south, very secluded and beautiful. Just hike out
of town on the road before Rollies Restaurant or ask for directions from a
local. If you want to walk about 45 minutes, there are wonderful beaches to
the south called Patcuaro (pahs-QUER-oh), and Patscuarito. Take water and food
as they are at least a half hour walk away and there is nothing available
out there. People have begun building out that way so you may not be
alone. To the north you can hike past a couple beautiful beaches to the town
of San Francisco (San Pancho) and have lunch. It is about a 3 mile hike. They
also have taxis you can hire to take you back after too much tequila.
ATMs & Money:
You will need pesos in Sayulita. There are now 4 ATM machines in
Sayulita.
Some places may take a little bit of US dollars to pay for something, but
the exchange rate they will give will not be good. Only a couple places take
credit cards. There is a new money exchange establishment off the town plaza.
To get the best exchange rate, you need to either get money in the airport
or pick it up at a bank on the way. Once you are here, the closest bank is in Bucerias, about 20 minutes south. The exchange rate is always
changing. It is now 1.00 USD to 10.50 Mxn.
Internet:
There are three good locations where you can log on to check on world problems
and email the dog sitter; 1. Dale Amigo!! Cafe is just off the town square
in Garcia Real Estate (30p/hr). 2. Sayulita Net Lounge is right on the square
and offers snacks and drinks (40p/hr). 3. Bre@kFast (50p/hr) is right on the
beach between Costeños and Don Pedros.
Buses:
The best way to get to Sayulita is on a bus. From the airport, cross the bridge
and wait at the bottom of the stairs for the Compostela bus that has Sayulita
written across the front windshield. The fare should be around 18 pesos. Getting
back to the airport and into Puerto Vallarta is even easier. Catch the Vallarta
bus in the town square (times: 6:00, 7:00, 7:30, 8:30, 9:30. 10:30, 12:00,
12:30, 2:00, 3:00, 4:00, 4:30, 5:30) and it will drop you off directly in
front of the airport. Do not forget that Jalisco and the airport are an hour
ahead. Sayulita is on Mountain Time, and Puerto Vallarta, is on Central Time.
So don’t miss that flight or you will have to stay in paradise for at least
another day. If you are going in to Vallarta, the bus will let you off in
front of the Sheraton Hotel and then you take a city bus into downtown or
old town. You have to do the opposite to come back; wait for the Sayulita
Compostela bus across the street from the Sheraton. The last bus back to Sayulita
is at 8:00. If you miss it you may have to take a cab back. The Pacifico bus
lines do not come into Sayulita but you can catch them or get dropped off
at the Sayulita exit on the 200 highway. Then walk the 3km into town or put
your thumb out for a ride.
Taxis:
Sayulita has many taxis and you can usually find one in the square. If none
are around or you want to plan ahead, you can call for one at the Paleteria
across from the town square. They can take you anywhere, even hours north
or south to the secret surf spots. Normal fares from the airport are quoted
as you come out of customs by hordes of drivers. The price depends on the
size of the vehicle and will vary between 400-600 Ps. We suggest that
you barter if you are comfortable doing so. There is an alternative
to taking the airport taxi by taking your luggage over the bridge and hailing
a non-airport cab. Their price is between 300 and 350 PS and the standard
tip is about 10%.
Mail:
The mail from Mexico takes at least 3 weeks to arrive at its US address. Everyone
who lives in Sayulita gives their mail to people who are going back to the
States where letters can then be mailed through the US postal service. To
send mail out of Mexico, you need to get stamps and mail your letters at a
post office. At Mi Tiendita in the town square you can purchase stamps and
put your mail in the box to be picked up at some undisclosed time. To receive
mail, you can pick up your letters at the same tiendra across from the square.
Packages will need to be picked up from one of the post offices, depending
on how it was routed that day. Be careful about having anything sent because
Mexican Customs will open boxes and assess about 30% taxes on the value of
the items inside.
ALAS BLANCAS: On the corner across from Adriana’s bed and breakfast and halfway between the plaza and the beach. The food is generally "very good" Mexican fare. The menu is in English and they are open most every day.
ANNA'S or EL BICHO: This quaint little eatery serves just a few dishes, tortas being the specialty, at very reasonable prices (12 pesos!!). They also serve great smoothies and fresh juices. It is located on the main road into the town center, just after the bridge, under a large open palapa.
CAFE SAYULITA: Located on the main street coming into town just a half block before the town square. They are known for and boast about their chile rellenos. They have many other Mexican specialties as well.
CALYPSO: Located across from the plaza on the corner above the other ice cream store. There is a nice bar and they have seating on the roof of the grocery store next door. This is a great place to watch the action at the plaza.
CAPTAIN PABLO'S: Directly in front of the best Sayulita surf break, this cozy spot features traditional Mexican seafood and tables in the sand. But wait, that's not all, Pablo and his wife Patti also offer fishing and surfing expeditions, surfboard rentals, and bungalows.
EL CASTEÑO
(also known as RUPERTOS): This restaurant is on the beach, straight
down from from the town square and is distinguished by its rustic columns
imbedded with shells and good food. Simple egg breakfasts are 20 PS.
FISH TACO: Uniquely decorated as a typical rustic taco stand, this eatery is the only place to find the Baja style breaded fish taco. They do a great job with steamed veggies and chile rellenos as well. Located right on the town square.
CHEO’S TACOS: Coming into town it is on your left right after the bridge. Cheo is the real Mexican thing and is the best of the street vendors. Great food, great prices. He does grilled onions right.
CHOCO BANANA: This is Sayulita’s original coffee shop/cafe. They serve breakfast and lunch and lots of other “good for you” food. It’s a great place to sit around and catch up on the village gossip and read newspapers and magazines. Located on the plaza.
DON PEDRO’S: This is one of Sayulita’s fanciest restaurant/bars. The first bar in town to serve blended drinks! You can’t miss the place as it’s on the beach, about 3 stories tall with a huge palapa roof. They serve food upstairs and down and it’s all good. They take credit cards. Lot’s of TV’s for sporting events.
El GALLILO: This excellent gourmet pizza joint is actually in San Francisco (San Pancho) but it was so good we had to include it. Great atmosphere and a lot of room for live music and big parties. They have gourmet and daring toppings and also serve various grill specials if you know to ask.
LAURA’S: Laura is famous in town for her cooking and wherever she opens, people flock. Recently located half a block from the beach towards the plaza, she serves excellent Mexican food with seating on the street.
LEZA'S: Located right on the square with traditional Mexican fare. They have good food at good prices. Try everything.
MACANDO: This Italian restaurant is located right beyond the NE corner of the baseball field. American owned, they make great salads, pizzas, and pasta among other things.
MARGARITAS: It is right on the beach in front of the surf break. They offer traditional Mexican food, seafood specialties, and gringo-Mexican food. It is the best place to have a few beer and watch the locals slalom around the foam long boards.
LA OLA RICA: Located in San Francisco (San Pancho) just north of Sayulita and well worth the taxi ride. They have some great Mexican recipies of real quality and flavour. They are known for their ribs, pizza, and fajitas. But it's all good.
RED DRAGON: Unbelievable but true, a grea Chinese restaurant in the little Mexican town of Sayulita. Located a block north of Alas Blancas on the right side of the road, they have the best egg fu young and a full bar.
ROLLIE’S: If you are big on American style breakfasts, try Rollie's. He is open in the winter season from 8:00 - 12:00. Rollie, his wife Jeanie and his son run the restaurant. They are located about a block south of the plaza on the road out of town. His son Josh is quite a musician and he plays a guitar as they both sing.
RON’S PIZZA: This is a great hang-out that’s been around for a long time and serves great Pizza. It’s located along the south side of the river, right past the bridge, and a block and a half from the beach. He has a real wood burning pizza over.
SAYULITA NET LOUNGE: This new cafe offers great drinks, snacks, and internet connection. They also offer copy servies, movie night, and fun nights with live music.
SI HAY OLITAS: A very clean and well designed restaurant located on the right side of the main street as you enter town and after you cross the bridge. They serve typical Nayarit fare, traditional Mexican with seafood specialties.
STREET VENDORS: There are a number of makeshift street-side taco stands near the village plaza. They are fried right in front of you and are excellent. I don't know of anyone who has ever gotten sick from eating them, but trust your own judgment. They are made from chicken, pork or beef. They are very, very good, and you can buy beer from the liquor store, sit on the street or at the sidewalk tables and have on of the best and cheapest meals of your life.
TAMALE LADY: Some of the best tamales can be found wandering the town in the basket of a local Mexican woman. She works during the day making delicious carne, pollo, y chile con queso tamales and then walks her way around the village until she sells out. Her house is on the river just inland from the bridge.
TERRAZOLA: This place is cute, has great food, and genuinely nice workers. Wendy and Onton are the sweetest people and they really know their recipies. They have taken over this little Trailer Park snack stand and given it character and class. Serving lunch and dinner with excellent fish, burgers, tacos, and many other specialties.
SURFING: Sayulita does have a nice, although small, break, a right and a left. It is more of a long board wave, but the local kids rip it up on short boards even on a blown out day. Trips can be arranged with a taxi to several spots to the north and south. I can tell you about the ones that are no longer secret spots. To the south some spots are Burros, La Launcha, El Faro, and Restaurants. To the north are San Pancho, Chacala, Santa Cruz, and San Blas. The best way to surf most of these spots is to hire a boat. There are a few boat captains who make surf charters. If you are learning to surf, then the waves of Sayulita are perfect; not too big, fast, or heavy. You can rent surfboards and boogie boards at Santa Crucecita, Captain Pablo's, or Papa’s Palapas. They also offer surf lessons. If you are a beginner, get a long board and try to go out where there are less people. Also, three times a winter, Sayulita hosts a two-day-long surfing competitions.
FISHING: If you want to rent a boat for fishing, the cost will be about 350 pesos per hour with at least a two hour minimum. You can usually find someone to take you in Sayulita or there are a lot more boats in Punta de Mita. It’s also a great chance to see the coast. It is possible to catch some fish from the beach, but open ocean fishing is generally more productive.
HORSEBACK RIDING: Horses can be rented from Verdin across from the baseball and basketball field. You can arrange to go down to the beach or tour through the jungle.
BIKING: Bikes are available to rent by a few local Mexicans and by Santa Crucita. You can better explore the edges of town and even find a tour guide to take you on a scenic bick tour at the Taller de Bicicleta up the hill on Avenue Pelicanos.
SNORKLING: Snorkels and fins can be rented in the village at Santa Crucita or on the beach at Papa’s Palapas. The best place in Sayulita to see fish and find somewhat clear water is Playa de los Muertos, on the south end of town. The best place nearby is to hire a boat out to the Marietas Islands. This is a great trip and ask the guide to take you to the cave on the east side of the island where you can swim through to an enclosed private beach. Diving is available in Vallarta through Chico’s Dive Shop (in Mex. 322-22-21895) or many other places
WHALE WHATCHING: You can hire a boat in Sayulita, Punta de Mita, or in Vallarta for this exciting excursion. In the Bahia Bandera all the boats work together to make sure that you see a whale on your trip. It is amazing to be up close to the largest animal on the planet. In the winter months the humpback whales use the protective waters of the bay to raise their calves.
GOLFING: There is a golf course near Bucerias called the Flamingo Country Club. The green fees and caddy will run you about $100, and clubs are available if you need them. There are several other courses in the area including the Four Season Resort, El Tigre, Mayan Palace, Paradise Village and several more in the planning.
SWIMMING: Pick a beach. The waters are usually safe except when there are storms at sea and the waves get big. Then there are some rip currents and hard hitting waves. Use your best judgement.
HIKING: There are many trails leading out of town you can hike out and see where they lead. A hike to one of the nearby beaches is fun or an organized trip to Monkey Montain can be arranged.
